Life Is Good ... Experience - BVI

With Abby in first grade this year, we decided to move our BVI trip up and leave before the Christmas holidays so that she would not miss as much school. She was not so keen on it at first--“How would Santa find us in the BVI? There’s no snow for the reindeer and we won’t have a fireplace to hang our stockings or a chimney for him to come down…” But we finally convinced her that Santa can find children wherever they may be on Christmas Eve and not to worry.
We arrived in the BVI a week before Christmas. Everyone was getting ready for the holiday-you could feel the hustle and bustle already.

First we rest… Fort Recovery 1.800.367.8455 www.fortrecovery.com
Fort Recovery Located near the west end of Tortola, on the Caribbean side of the island known as Sir Frances Drake Channel, overlooking Norman Island and St. John, lies the quiet and secluded Fort Recovery, named after the fort whose ruins are visible today. It truly is the perfect place to come and recover from the stresses of everyday life. I found a fabulous spot on the white sand beach, under an almond tree where I could wile away the afternoon, reading a good book and watching the yachts sail by.
Each of the villas is air conditioned, with full kitchens and water views. We had a penthouse suite with beautiful white-washed wood plank floors and an open vaulted ceiling. The rooms have an authentic Caribbean feel and are tastefully decorated. Although a far cry from a bustling resort, Fort Recovery offers every amenity one could wish for. Pamela, the concierge at Fort Recovery, can assist you with everything from restaurant reservations to scuba lessons. The resort offers many activities and amenities right on the premises, including a pool, a snorkel trip to the Indians and the Caves of Normans Island followed by lunch at the Willy T. (complimentary to guests staying for seven nights), private trips for those wishing to go to Virgin Gorda and The Baths, jeep rentals and in-room dining--you pick the menu, a chef prepares your meal and a waiter lights the candles and serves it in your room from beginning to end.
There’s an exercise and spa room where they offer hair, nails and massage services. Continental breakfast is available each morning with the freshest juice and homemade pastries to die for. Fort Recovery is also the perfect spot for a sunset-beachfront wedding and will provide complimentary wedding planning services.
When you call, ask them about their one week packages which include all of the amenities and excursions including a jeep rental for the week. I must say, one of the things I loved most about my time at Fort Recovery was the complimentary Yoga/Pilates class each afternoon at sunset- right on the dock overlooking Sir Frances Drake Channel. Pamela leads guests in an invigorating 45- minute Pilates mat class followed by serene Yoga stretches and chanting in the most beautiful setting. It seemed so much easier to hold the stretches while listening to the water lap at the dock and feeling the last rays of the yellow sun on my face as it slid behind the hills of St John.
The owners of Fort Recovery have opened a new resort on the island of Bequia, off of St. Vincent. They are offering an exciting, Adventure Package which is one week in Tortola and one week in Bequia, including airfare from Tortola to Bequia.

Nanny Cay Hotel 1.866.284.4683 www.nannycay.com
After recovering at Fort Recovery, we were ready to pick up the pace a bit and we traveled over to Nanny Cay, the largest and most active marina in the BVI. We stayed in a beautiful second floor deluxe suite at the Nanny Cay Hotel with two balconies which afforded spectacular views overlooking the marina. One of the balconies had a wonderful teak dining table and chairs and we enjoyed eating breakfast there and watching all the sailors getting ready to cast off. The other balcony was my afternoon retreat with teak lounge chairs and a ceiling fan. The suite was beautifully decorated with rich mahogany and wicker furniture.
Nanny Cay is like a vacation village. It’s a great place to stay before or after a charter but also a great destination unto itself. You really enjoy the best of both worlds: a small hotel setting with a bustling resort feel and lots of activity.
There’s an enormous choice of onsite businesses. You can set up your dive trip with Blue Water Divers, get snacks and provisions at Rite Way Market or check your email at the C o c o n u t Telegraph. The hotel can organize wind-surfing lessons and can even arrange for a boat to pick you up and take you to the best spot for bone fishing on Tortola. There are shops, boat rentals, a sailing school, charter companies and two restaurants, ALL RIGHT THERE!
Did I mention the pool and the beach? Nanny Cay has one of the most beautifully designed pools in the BVI. When the marina recently dredged to accomodate larger yachts, they had the foresight to use the beautiful white sand from the dredging to create a huge, white sand beach right onthe Sir Frances Drake Channel. The pool overlooks this beach and has great views of Norman Island. It’s also a great place to meet people from all over the world. Everyone staying in the hotel or onboard their yachts eventually ends up at the pool and everyone has a great story to share. We felt right at home at Nanny Cay and look forward to returning.
Knowing how much Rob loves to be on the water, Miles Sutherland Pilch, Nanny Cay’s Marina Manager and our host at Nanny Cay, arranged for us to take out a 22-ft Contender, Center Console from Island Time Rental Ltd. 284.495.9933. It was so convenientall we did was walk down to the dock and the staff got us on the boat and on our way in just a few minutes. It was perfect--Nanny Cay is centrally located on the Sir Frances Drake Channel so it is the perfect jumping-off point for some serious island hopping. That is the greatest thing about the BVI--the islands’ proximity to one another and the easy line of sight navigation. The Contender with its 200 hp Yamaha engine flew across the Channel. Before long we were tied up to a mooring off of Peter Island and were happily in the water. After a half hour snorkel, we climbed back aboard and headed for Cooper Island for lunch where we had the best Roti’s, and then finished off the day with a drink and a little entertainment at the Willy T. (no, we didn’t get a T-shirt [this time…]). Then it was time for a quick run across the channel and back to Nanny Cay--We sang Born to be Wild at the top of our lungs and I thanked God to be alive and out on the water on this magical day!

Home for the Holidays - Lambert Beach Resort 284.495.2877
We arrived at Lambert Beach Resort on the east end of Tortola on December 23rd and it truly felt like coming “home.” Mr. Leslie, the general manager greeted us with hugs as if we were his family just flown in for the holidays. The resort was decorated to the hilt and there was Caribbean Christmas music playing in the background-we were going to be Home for the Holidays…
Because families should be together at Christmas, we invited Rob’s mom, Frances and his sister Susie to join us. Susie comes down with us every year but we were especially excited to share our love of the BVI with Fran. She was absolutely mesmerized by the sheer beauty of the islands and the way the mountains seem to descend directly into the sea. She spent most of her time on the white sand beach at Lambert, reading a book and staring out into the sea. “It’s the most beautiful beach I have ever seen…” she said. “Now I can understand why you keep coming back here year after year.” This from a woman in her 80’s who in her younger days had worked as a travel agent and traveled around the world.
It is always great to bring someone to the BVI for the first time--you get to experience it all over again through their eyes.
We decorated our rooms with lights and a mini Christmas tree and lo and behold, Christmas morning we woke up and Santa had been there! It truly was a Christmas to remember. Later that morning we went into town and attended Mass and after that we went over to Dolphin Discovery where Abby was able to swim with the dolphins. What an experience! The program is very well run. First, before you even get into the water, they show a video on the care and handling of the dolphins. Then you get into the lagoon with the dolphins and have opportunities to touch and interact with these amazing creatures. They are just so smart and beautiful. There’s also a great new interactive exhibit for people who want to interact with the animals but don’t necessarily want to get wet.
DOLPHIN DISCOVERY 284.494.7675 www.dolphindiscovery.com
That evening we went into Road Town for a phenomenal dinner at a new restaurant called The Dove. It is right in town across from the Ferry Terminal. What an amazing place--it is so different from any restaurant in the BVI. It’s very cozy inside. The dining room is decorated in rich hues of red and yellow with a wonderful bar and outside porch area. The food is described as Asian-French. And even though we did not recognize the names of any of the dishes, they were described perfectly on the menu and everything that we ordered was out of this world. If you only go out to eat once while you are on Tortola, make sure to make reservations at the Dove. 67 Main Street Tortola 284.494.0313 www.dovebvi.com

Pussers Marina Cay 284.494.2174 www.pussers.com
We spent a wonderful NewYear’s Eve at Pussers Marina Cay. What a fun place… If you are cruising by boat, there are plenty of overnight moorings around Marina Cay and you just dingy in. If you are landside, Pussers offers a free water taxi from Trellis Bay, right next to the Beef Island airport. It’s a fun ride and it lets you off right on the dock of the restaurant/island resort. Our first stop of course was to the Pussers store. They have a whole line of fine women’s and men’s clothing along with handbags, hats, books, etc. We each left with a bag of goodies. At the restaurant we met up with Charles and Joanna Tobias, the owners of Pussers. We ate, drank and were merry and welcomed in 2005 in style. We spent the rest of the week riding the waves back at Lambert or frolicking poolside. The pool at Lambert has a swim-up bar and by the way, they make a mean Bushwaker.

Lambert now also has a small, intimate openair pavilion right on the beach and I had the most amazing massage. Aadesh, a masseuse from India, worked magic with his mindblowing Swedish & Indian massage. It doesn’t get much better than this…The warm breeze caressing your skin while you drift away to a state of perfect relaxation to the sound of crashing waves. THE BVI SPA has locations throughout the BVI at resorts such as Leverick Bay, Biras Creek, Nail Bay and Bitter End Yacht Club. It’s a great way to pamper yourself, especially after a week on charter…
But all good things must come to an end and it was time for Fran to go home and for us to move on to our next destination.

The BVI Spa 284.495.7375

To Sea - Nautic Blue 464 1.800.416.0224 www.nauticblue.com
What is it they say? Once you’ve had a taste of luxury, it’s oh, so hard to go back…
Well, I think they might be right. After experiencing the luxury, comfort, ease and excellent handling of the Nautic Blue Power Cat last year-we just could not think of a better way to cruise the BVI. We arrived at the Moorings base and were immediatley welcomed with open arms by Jane and Lyndon. Again it was like coming home to a dear friend.
The entire team at Nautic Blue, led by manager Mike Williams, does a terrific job of maintaining the boats and making sure that your charter is an unforgettable experience.
The Nautic Blue 464 Power Cat is all about luxury, space and stability. As you enter the salon, you feel as though you have just stepped into someone’s Park Avenue apartment. You might experience this same sensation if you boarded one of the mega yachts you see down here so often, but on a charter boat???? Well it’s true. The salon is outfitted with luxury in mind--ultra-suede couches surround a large high-gloss oval table for eight. The galley has a stand-up fridge/freezer, just like at home. No bending over an ice chest on this boat! There is a three burner electric stove, microwave, coffee maker and an allimportant blender for those afternoon boat drinks. There’s a large helm station and lots of windows so that you have plenty of natural light inside and it doesn’t feel like you are on a submarine. There’s a great CD sound system with speakers inside the salon as well as outside and on the bridge.
A few steps down on either side of the salon are the four staterooms complete with four private heads & showers. The beds are so comfortable, and best of all, there’s plenty of closet space and storage so that you don’t have to live out of a duffle bag.
The entire boat is air conditioned which comes in handy on really hot nights. The boat is optimal for four couples-we had room to spare so Abby had her own playroom.
Years ago you did not have much choice when chartering in the BVI- Moorings and most of the other charter companies only offered sailboats. Even ten years ago when we came on our honeymoon, there was only one Tortola-based charter company that had any power boats and they had only had one, an older and very slow trawler. We took it of course but it just goes to show how the market has changed. When we cruise, we don’t want to be bothered with sails and we want speed and roomthat’s why the Nautic Blue 464 really works for us. The Nautic Blue even has more room than the big sail catamarans because of the flying bridge. The flying bridge of the Nautic Blue is the true “living room” of the boat, or at least it was for us. When we cruise from island to island we love being up there together, listening to Cheeseburger in Paradise and waving to passing boats. Once we tie up to a mooring at our destination, we like to just relax up there with some cheese and crackers and maybe a glass of wine and watch people come and go. It’s a whole extra room. That’s the thing on the Nautic Blue- -there is so much room and so many different spaces that even with a full boat of eight people, you could find a place to yourself if you wanted. Comfort, luxury, space and stability, what more could you ask for? Oh, and you can swim underneath it... (Abby wanted to make sure everyone knew that!)
We had ordered our provisions from Rite Way online before we even left New York and they arrived as scheduled right to the boat so all we had to do was unload and store all of our gear and we were on our way!!! RITE WAY 284.494.2263 www.rtwbvi.com
First stop... Norman Island
We headed out into the channel and up towards Normans. There’s something about that very first day’s cruise. You just feel so alive--like every pore of your body is just soaking in the sunshine, the fresh air and the excitement of the adventure at hand.
We arrived at Normans in plenty of time to grab a mooring, chill for a bit and then head out in the drink for a short snorkel at the caves. Later that evening we went to our very favorite BVI restaurant, Pirates Bight. Elvitt, the owner has become a friend over the years and we look forward to seeing him each time we return. Pirates is not your average burger on the beach type place--they really strive to create authentic Caribbean dishes and their vegetables and side dishes are always delicious. And just in case you were wondering-- they do still make the best Bushwakers in the BVI! Listen for the cannon at around 4 pm--it signals that Happy Hour has begun….
When it rains…look for the rainbow
So we have chartered in the BVI in January for six years in a row and have always had perfect weather… We had heard about the Christmas Winds but had never actually experienced them before…now. The Christmas Winds brought dark skies, choppy waters and rain. For the most part intermittent rain- but one day it rained ALL DAY. Now you might think that that would have been the worst day of the trip--stuck in the rain with a seven-year-old. Au contraire, believe it or not, we all agree that that was our BEST day. The day before we’d met a family from our own area of Eastern Long Island. What’s more, the dad happens to be our dentist and what’s even better they had twin boys a year younger than Abby. Their boat was on a nearby mooring and so Abby was able to swim over to their boat to get Sam and Jordan and then they came over to spent hours jumping off the side of the boat and then swimming through the middle of the two pontoons. All of this in the pouring rain… Later, both families went in to Pirates for lunch and just spent a great afternoon drinking Bushwakers and swapping stories. Just goes to show you-bad circumstances can be turned around by good company.
The next day seemed better weather-wise so we headed out. There was a bit of a swell but the Nautic Blue handled perfectly. At one point the sky turned black, visibility was nil and the skies opened up. We got soaked, but we just throttled down, took it real slow and after about seven minutes the rain stopped, the sky brightened and up ahead of us was the most amazingly beautiful rainbow. We watched that rainbow all the way to Coopers Island. We grabbed a mooring and went snorkeling right off the boat.
We headed up to North Sound the next day in hopes that the weather would break and we could go over to Anegada for a couple of days. We had never been there before and heard such marvelous things but we checked with the Moorings staff at Bitter End and they really advised us against it. The winds were just too strongso it wasn’t meant to be this year. That’s what keeps us coming back. There is always somewhere that we have not tried yet.
You know what they say, all work and no play… but since we were away from the office for so long we had to find a way to stay in touch- and thanks to a little help from CCT Wireless (formerly Boat Phone) it was easy! CCT now offers GSM service so we were able to use our own GSMcompatible phone and could be reached at our regular number. We were also able to set up the office on board. CCT hooked us up with a GPRS/EDGE wireless data card for the laptop and I was instantly able to access email and even download large graphics files- no problem! Check out their website at www.cctwireless.com or call them at 284.494.3825 for a list of supported carriers.
All Ashore Who’s Going Ashore - BEYC - Bitter End Yacht Club 1.800.872.2392 www.beyc.com
After we returned the boat to the base in Road Town, we said goodbye to Susie who had to fly back to the real (cold) world and Rob, Abby and I jumped onto the North Sound express and headed over to Bitter End for one last week in paradise.
The Bitter End is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. To commemorate this, they had an informal contest to get people to come up with a slogan or an idea of what BEYC stands for (other than Bitter End Yacht Club) The winning slogan was put on T-shirts and the shirts are given out to return guests at a special cocktail party. These shirts are not sold anywhere-you can only get them this year as a returning guest-and no, you can not have mine! What’s the slogan? Oh, you are going to love it. Because Every Year Counts!!! So true! Remember that the next time you are trying to decide whether to go away or work next year during your vacation.
Although some things will (hopefully) never change at Bitter End, like the friendliness of the staff, the great food, the fabulous assortment of water sports and the nightly movie (Abby wanted me to add that one!), we did see some really positive changes or you might say additions, this year. First off, many of the north side rooms have been renovated and redecorated. We toured one completed room and WOW! New tile, new furniture and the same great view and airy feeling as if you were in a (luxury) treehouse overlooking crystal-clear turquoise water.
The other exciting addition is the new Bitter End Adventure Club, the brainchild of sailing instructor Katie, who has come up with a schedule of events for returning guests so that they can try something new and possibly a bit extreme. She guides guests in activities ranging from Sunrise Yoga, hiking and kayaking tours to Out of Bounds Sailing and the Cosmic Sailing Adventure.
I took part in the yoga and the hikes, but I think I have to work on my basic sailing skills a bit more before I do any cosmic sailing. Abby on the other hand took part in every activity available to kids! She had a blast doing arts & crafts and knocked us out when she actually started windsurfing on her first try!
One of the best things that Bitter End offers is its day trips. They do trips to Norman Island, to the Baths and to Anegada. Since we did not get there on our own while on charter, we decided to give it a try as a day trip. The water was still rough and we had a very wet and wild ride over to Anegada on board the Paranda, the BEYC’s catamaran-but it was a blast. Abby BVI - 11 would laugh every time a wave would break over the bow and we would all get soaked. Before long we were all in hysterics and looking forward to the next wave to see who would get it in the face! Once at Anegada, we took a short drive to Loblolly Bay. We spent the day snorkeling and looking for shells along the pink sand beach. After lunch we watched a young native boy take live lobsters from a trap. He became an instant celebrity and generously posed for pictures and let each of us have a turn holding the lobsters. We fell in love with Anegada and definitely can’t wait to come back, on our own charter boat, next year.
I know I’ve said it time and time again, but no trip to the BVI is complete without a stop at the Bitter End, be it overnight on a mooring, a day trip by ferry or a week or two in a suite.

Just do it,
Because Every Year does Count
(and no Susie, you can not have my shirt!